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Reviewed February 11, 2004   »   32avenue.com   |   justin-cheung.com     

Truffles

Four Seasons Hotel Toronto, 21 Avenue Rd. - Toronto, Canada
Frisee Salad | with Roasted Pears, Stilton, Spiced Walnuts and Sherry Vinaigrette. The roasted pears were a nice little touch, not like anything I've had before. However, the rest of the salad was very ordinary, and the cubes of stilton, with its blue cheese taste, did not mesh well with the appetizer at all. Overall, an barely passable appetizer only because the roasted pears passed it.

Herb Roasted Cornish Hen | with Truffled Mushroom Brioche Pudding, Rosemary Natural Jus. The hen was decently portioned, relatively moist throughout, but I've had better cornish hen before. Still, it was relatively good with a hint rosemary jus helping the taste considerably. The brioche pudding, however, was a completely different story. Very soft without being overly mushy, and bursting with flavour, it really brought out the dish, and helped keep the meal filling. Presentation was nothing special. Overall, a slightly above average entree.

Pan Seared Arctic Char | with Arugula, Carrot Risotto, Lemon Thyme Nage. The arugula was the star of Remi's entree, which really doesn't bode well for the arctic char considering the char is supposed to be the main attraction. The char was quite salty and not very tender at all. Portions, at least, were pretty decent, but the presentation was only average. If not for the arugula and its firm, juicy taste, this entree would have slightly failed.

Caramelized Apple Mousse | with Buttermilk Sauce Anglaise. Garnished with some pears on the side and some slices of apple on the top. A very light yet sweet dessert, not too overbearing on the caramel. Taste wasn't off-the-charts, but it wasn't bad either. Average portion for a dessert, and presentation was okay. Overall, slightly above average dessert.

Conclusion: French cuisine that quite honestly, did not deserve the coveted 5 diamond rating. My expectations going in were initially high because of its national reputation, yet lowered because I had heard nothing but poor reviews of Truffles from word of mouth, even for normal dining. I'm glad I had listened to my friends and lowered my expectations, otherwise I would've been so bitter I would've close to flunk the restaurant. Service was barely passable; not too well-trained, barely checked on us to see how we were doing. However, they did check our coats without needing to give us a coat check pass, which was nice. Complimentary bread was pretty cold and stale, but at least there was a large variety to choose from, so you can get flatbread to compensate. However, the portions overall were filling, so we didn't need to fill up on bread. Ambience was relatively quaint and cozy, without being overbearingly romantic. The restaurant was surprisingly small, which accounts for how they sold out for winterlicious so quickly. Free validated parking at the Four Seasons (particularly useful, since without it, parking costs $4 per half hour!). In conclusion, I'm impartial to returning to this restaurant.

3.0

Justin's out of 5.0

3.7

Renee's out of 5.0

noteworthy
n/a


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